Category: Sailing in the Med

Twenty Years Ago Today, Saturday, December 19, 1998: DS-Antalya, Turkey; Panes – Istanbul

 

 

LOG: Snow, then flight to Los Angeles

CHASING SUNSETS: p234, “There was no way we could be blasé on our last morning when we woke to see the first snowfall of the winter, with the Blue Mosque, snow covered and magnificent, rising above a white landscape.”

And that afternoon we flew home for Christmas. I will remain with my mother for a couple of weeks in January, while Laurie and Ryan visit his family in Australia. From now until we return to Turkey on February 10th, posts will be sporadic and will only drop in with interesting events like when Ryan plays with tigers.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all from the captain and crew of DOLPHIN SPIRIT.

Twenty Years Ago Today ,Friday, December 11, 1998: DS-Antalya, Turkey; Panes – Istanbul

LOG: Yesil Ev

CHASING SUNSETS: p231, “Our hotel, Yesil Ev, or Green House, was a converted house, painted green, right in the middle of everything we wanted to see in Istanbul. The big three (Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi, together with the Yerebatan Saray, were all within 300 yards of the front door.

Who needed a TV (there wasn’t one anyway), when the misty blue, flood lit, Blue Mosque filled the window. Who needed alarm clocks (you guessed it, none in the room), when the call to prayer boomed at us, from at least six mosques, at first light. They seem to practice call- and-respond, or we-can-be-louder-than-you, or both, randomly. Although these were more strident than most, we have been woken by similar calls for almost two years, since Indonesia, so our response was to sleepily note that it must be six o’clock, and roll over for more snooze.”

 

 

Twenty Years Ago Today,Wednesday, December 9, 1998: DS-Antalya, Turkey; Panes – Istanbul

Twenty Years Ago Today,Wednesday, December 9, 1998: DS-Antalya, Turkey; Panes – Istanbul

LOG: Hagia Sophia

Church turned mosque -now a museum.

 

Twenty Years Ago, Today, Sunday, October 4, 1998: Ucagiz, Turkey

Twenty Years Ago, Today, Sunday, October 4, 1998: Ucagiz, Turkey

LOG: Calm – so sanded & put 4th coat of varnish on cockpit.

CHASING SUNSETS: p 228, “We would have liked to have dove on the ruins, but a special guide was required for all diving in Turkey. Unguided diving was forbidden because there are so many underwater ruins and antiquities that the Authorities wanted to preserve from damage and looting.”

 

Twenty Years Ago, Today, Saturday, October 3, 1998: Ucagiz, Turkey

Twenty Years Ago, Today, Saturday, October 3, 1998: Ucagiz, Turkey

LOG: Stayed put. Dinghied out to tombs in sea. Small islands all covered w/ruins.

CHASING SUNSETS: p 228, “Most of the surrounding islands are covered in ruins, so this must have been quite a metropolis in its hey-day.”

Yes, that is the castle way up in the mountain that I climbed yesterday.

And yes, the water is very cold. Ryan jumped in, as Dad asked so he would be in the picture, and popped right back up. Dad took a quick pix, and Rye hopped into the dinghy to be wrapped in towels then snuggled in blankets.2105 october 2, 1998 turkey, kale ryan climbing

Twenty Years Ago, Today, Friday, October 2, 1998: Ucagiz, Turkey

Twenty Years Ago, Today, Friday, October 2, 1998: Ucagiz, Turkey

LOG: Dinghy to Kale Koy – ancient Simena. Walked up to castle w/2 ladies who sell scarves. One age 52 helped Carole up & down. Lunch ashore at Ibraham – big hands to attract yachts to his wharf; Hassam flags to attract. Walked through tiny village to more tombs.

CHASING SUNSETS: p 228, “We dinghied to Kale Koy (ancient Simena), past rocks with stairs cut in them leading to the top of the rock, but nothing else; past huge sarcophagi with holes smashed in their sides by ancient grave robbers, and tied up at the wharf at the foot of the stairs to the castle. Two ladies immediately attached themselves to us and were our guides up and down the very steep staircase. Carole’s assistant was short and heavy and looked much older than Carole. She leapt up and down the stairs like a gazelle, a fact I was smart enough not to mention more than once. The view from the castle walls was worth the climb.

Carole: Those stairs had no railings, glass smooth stone surfaces, and sheer drops. Laurie was lucky I didn’t just sit down and scoot my way up and down on my bottom. It was gorgeous though, and well worth the terror.”

Twenty Years Ago, Today, Thursday, October 1, 1998: Ucagiz, Turkey

Twenty Years Ago, Today, Thursday, October 1, 1998: Ucagiz, Turkey

LOG: Calm. Walked across isthmus to Sicak to see Aperlae ruins & sarcophagus – some under water. Goats everywhere. More camels. Up anchor – 3-mile motor to Ucagiz, ancient Teimiussa – anchored in 23 ft.

CHASING SUNSETS: p 228, “The sarcophagi lined the shore, but the water was too murky (a first in Turkey) for snorkeling. We had walked across the isthmus from Polemos to see the ruins of the ancient city and port of Aperlae, some of which are under water. Ryan and I snorkeled but saw only vague outlines.”